WT042 - ONE HELL OF A PAGODA

Yangon (formerly known as Rangoon), the country's current largest city, is home to bustling markets, numerous parks and lakes, and the famous towering gold-painted Shwedagon Pagoda, which contains Buddhist artefacts that date back to the 6th century. The downtown, even if not that charming, awakes everyday to the chaos of small street businesses, services, the constant traffic and the movement of people. It is always buzzing with something new, and due to its location close to the harbour, it has many bus connections starting and ending there. The three circular lines - bus Nº56, Nº57 and Nº58 - are an easy and cheap way of getting a first impression of this part of town. Also enclosed in the area is the "China Town" and a Beer Street with lots of food vendors to choose from.


Walking a bit further north, the environment changes quite dramatically, as the old colonial buildings and the city's landmarks start to show up. The Sule Pagoda is a golden and historic Buddhist pagoda with multiple shrines and statues, as well as, small shops around it. I do not know if a fee for entrance is actually mandatory but as I was entering some ladies came to me asking for money. In the south corner from the pagoda is the Maha Bandoola Park, a grass-filled park with fountains and an obelisk in the centre, which is in fact the Independence Monument. Surrounding it, there's the Immanuel Baptist Church, the Yangon City Hall and the Regional Court.


Still in direction north, or better to the railway station, the traffic intensifies and the buildings start to get higher and higher, and of course richer. Some shopping malls and big brand companies are located in this part.


On the other side of the shopping malls is the Bogyoke Aung San Market, a major bazaar known for its colonial architecture and inner cobblestone strets. It is a popular tourist destination, with many kinds of handcraft and jewellery shops, art galleries, medicine and clothing stores and foreign goods. Currency exchange is also possible as part of the black market.


The Beer Street (or 19th street) is part of the China Town and common for locals to meet and drink. 


From the main railway station you can take the circular train, about 3 hours ride, and stop everywhere you wish. The ticket costs 200 MMK (0,12 EUR) and is a great way to mingle with locals and see the surrounding landscape, markets and traditions.


We only got out one time, and because we spotted from far away a kind-of temple that looked like Taj Mahal but better. What awaited us was a surprise, since we thought the temple would be an old one, but instead it is still in construction as we speak. The Thatbyinnyu Temple is completely unknown to tourists, difficult to reach by foot, and you need permission to enter the site, as it can be dangerous. Nonetheless, we had to take off our shoes at the main gate and walk around barefoot. The place is gigantic and unbelievable beautiful. It consists of different shrines and statues outside and two big buildings that serve as temples. In the centre is the highest one and far from completion. Its interior is still raw, except the last floor which is covered in gold and red ornaments, and a big Buddha statue. The 360º views from that point go as far as the next train stop into the green countryside.


After the train ride, we felt that some walking would do us some good the next day. We took one the circular line busses to the Sule Pagoda and from there another bus to the Bogyoke Park. The park itself is nice but not a wonder. It has an agricultural area inside, a large lake and some single islands connected by wood bridges. The park is now suffering a rehabilitation because of the construction of Myanmar's future Aquarium. This project will include new surfaces in the lake and change the actual plan with its light shows. We have to see in the future. On the opposite side is the Karaweik Palace, and not like the name suggests, the gold structure with two dragons is only an expensive restaurant. Still worth to see.


The Utopia Tower is a building I cannot explain. It exists as a nice panoramic viewpoint (small fee required), but its main purpose in the park is as a karaoke and learning centre. In my point of view, two things unnecessary in such a fine green space.


Finally we arrived at the top tourist landmark - the Shwedagon Pagoda. I was marvelled to see it and can only recommend all people visiting Myanmar to do the same. This historic 2,500 years old pagoda is located west of the Royal Lake on a 114 acre hill and is the most sacred and impressive Buddhist site in the country. It still enshrines strands of Buddha's hair and other holy relics, but it is its main gold stupa that will bring you to your feet. The Shwedagon Pagoda stands today close to 110 meters and consists of hundreds of colourful temples, stupas, and statues that reflect its architectural era. The top of the stupa is encrusted with 4531 diamonds, the largest of which is a 72 carat diamond. Devotees and monks come often to pray and meditate, wash the statues, offer flowers, and worship Buddha. For sure one of the World Wonders.


Next Stop: Pyay, Myanmar


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